ALL ABOUT SILK RAW MATERIALS
Silk is highly compatible with human skin, in that Silk contains the same Amino Acids that are naturally found on the skin’s surface; both protein structures are alike. Silk demonstrates ability to hold moisture, form into a gel, enhance shine, protect, bond with, and easily penetrate the skin, and generally promote the appearance of its rejuvenation, which makes it ideal for a wide range of applications, both cosmetic and therapeutic.
Among the various types of silk additives that can be incorporated into formulations for cosmetics and personal care products, the following three are most common: Silk Amino Acids, Silk Peptide, and Silk Powder. All three of these water-soluble additives, which are derived from the Silk Worm’s cocoon, are comprised of 2 key proteins that are produced from 18 different Amino Acids. These 2 proteins are said to be responsible for cellular repair and regeneration, collagen production, as well as moisture retention and balance.
The first protein, Sericin, is the substance that makes it possible for silk strands to bind in order to form a cocoon. When applied to wounds, it is reputed to promote the coagulation that is necessary for wound healing and to facilitate the healing process. Furthermore, it diminishes the chance of contracting infections while it soothes and decreases wound inflammation.
The other protein, Fibroin, is the substance known to be a key factor in the firm structure as well as the strength and elasticity of silk, making it beneficial for use in not only skin care and hair care, but also in pharmaceuticals and textiles, among various other industries. Fibroin’s popularity as a skincare additive arises from the fact that it contains high levels of Glycine and Alanine, two Amino Acids that the human body produces through diet. In combination, these compounds are known to exhibit notable benefits on the skin and hair, as they condition, enhance collagen production and resilience, promote the repair of damage, facilitate healing, promote the appearance of a smoother complexion, calm inflammation, stimulate circulation, balance skin tone, prevent acne breakouts, and reduce the look of fine lines as well as scarring.
Silk extracts can be used on both the skin and the hair for their reputed abilities to hydrate, nourish, preserve, strengthen, protect against the harsh effects of UV radiation and oxidation, promote damage repair, help smooth the appearance of the signs of aging, soothe irritation even on the most sensitive of skin, balance both moisture and tone, and to encourage elasticity for skin and hair that look and feel healthier.
To decide which of the varieties is ideal for any given formulation, the determining factor is the size of the particles, as this is what influences an additive’s solubility in water as well as its ability to permeate the skin and hair. The deeper the penetration, the greater the influence of the additive’s restorative qualities; however, despite this benefit, the profound penetration also means that the skin’s surface does not experience the full extent of the desirable silky appearance and texture that Silk additives are reputed to contribute.
WHAT IS SILK AMINO ACIDS RAW MATERIAL
In order to achieve the product known as Hydrolyzed Silk Peptides – what is more commonly referred to as Silk Amino Acids – Silk must undergo the procedure of Hydrolysis. In this process, the silk threads that have been isolated from the cocoon are first combined into a long thread, then combed, then cleansed. Next, the silk fibers are boiled in a degumming solution in order to remove the gummy substance and glycoprotein known as Sericin. The Sericin that is extracted from the solution has the composition of amino acids, hence its better-known name – Silk Amino Acids. This final product is then processed into a liquid or powder form that can then be added to various cosmetic products.
This resultant water-soluble cosmetic additive is rich in Hydroxy-Amino Acids, a property that is required for it to be able to bind to water and to thereby help the skin preserve its natural moisture. The Amino Acid structure of Sericin also allows for it to create bonds with proteins that exhibit a firming and smoothing effect on the skin. Furthermore, Sericin is known for having anti-bacterial, anti-oxidant, and UV-protective properties. The hydrating qualities of Silk Amino Acids – which are said to enhance the skin’s absorbency – and the silky texture that they impart to cosmetic formulations and thus to the skin and hair makes this powder a popular additive in skin care and hair care formulations. Their molecular weight – the lowest weight of all three Silk additives – allows Silk Amino Acids to disperse into a thin but valuable semi-occlusive protective layer that acts as a moisture barrier on the skin. This layer remains on the skin and hair even after they are rinsed.
NDA’s Silk Amino Acids Raw Material is a fine, off-white powder that contains Alanine, Glycine and Serine, all of which exhibit high dispersion rates, thus allowing for this powder to quickly and easily disperse throughout and dissolve in other powders as well as liquids. Silk Amino Acids Raw Material is best known for its ability to prevent the loss of moisture and for acting as a silken conditioning agent that leaves the hair feeling exceptionally smooth, soft, and glossy, making it ideal for use in products for hair care.
WHAT IS SILK POWDER RAW MATERIAL
Silk Powder or “Powder Silk” is the full Silk protein. It is composed entirely of Fibroin and enriches the protein content of a wide array of cosmetics, contributing to their high quality. NDA’s Silk Powder is a yellow powder that, with a 200-mesh diameter, has the largest particle size and the heaviest molecular weight of all three silk additives. This means it sits on the skin’s surface, a quality that helps to contribute moisture and smoothness. Silk Powder promotes the appearance of a refined complexion by preserving natural moisture levels, capturing excess oils, and reducing the appearance of enlarged pores without causing them to become congested. Its particle structure offers sparkle that helps reflect light, giving it a naturally sleek and shimmering quality that brings radiance to the skin, making it ideal for addition to formulations for radiance-boosting makeup and exfoliating body polishes.
WHAT IS SILK SILK PEPTIDE RAW MATERIAL
Hydrolyzed Silk, also known as Silk Peptide Powder, is the result of natural Silk Powder undergoing purification through the process of Alkaline Hydrolysis and Dealkylation, after which it is dehydrated then packaged. In simpler terms, it is the broken pieces of the Silk Protein. The scrupulous processing method helps the Silk retain its natural structural and chemical configurations. NDA’s Silk Peptide Raw Material is a fine powder that is 100% natural and has the same molecular size (80-mesh diameter), structure, solubility, permeability, and beneficial properties as Silk Amino Acids. Silk Peptide Raw Material is known to exhibit the uncommon quality of retaining and discharging moisture, based on the environmental moisture level and temperature.
APPLICATIONS FOR SILK ADDITIVES
All 3 Silk additives can be used in a wide variety of products, such as shampoos, conditioners, hair treatments, body washes, face creams, bubble baths, body lotions, facial cleansers, toners, makeup foundations, mascaras, lipsticks and other color cosmetics, soap (liquid and bar), and shaving products. These Silk additives are known to integrate well with various types of cosmetics bases, colour additives, essential oils, and fragrance oils and are reputed to remain stable across a wide pH range.
To add Silk additives to product formulations, incorporate them into recipes at a rate of 2-5% by weight in the cool down phase below 110ᵒC. When adding them to cold process formulas, incorporate them in the water phases.
|SILK ADDITIVES COMPARISON CHART
SILK AMINO ACIDS RAW MATERIAL
CONTRAINDICATIONS FOR SILK RAW MATERIALS
As with all other New Directions Aromatics products, Silk Raw Materials are for external use only. It is imperative to consult a medical practitioner before using these products for therapeutic purposes. Pregnant and nursing women as well as those with sensitive skin are especially advised not to use Silk Raw Materials without the medical advice of a physician. These products should always be stored in an area that is inaccessible to children, especially those under the age of 7.
Prior to using Silk Raw Materials, a skin test is recommended. This can be done by dissolving 1 tsp of a Silk additive in 1 tsp of water and applying a dime-size amount of this blend to a small area of skin that is not sensitive. Silk additives must never be used near the inner nose and ears or on any other particularly sensitive areas of skin. There are no known potential side effects of Silk additives. In the event of an allergic reaction, discontinue use of the product and see a doctor, pharmacist, or allergist immediately for a health assessment and appropriate remedial action. To prevent side effects, consult with a medical professional prior to use.
After the addition of Silk additives, cosmetic formulation batches may vary in color; however, this will not negatively impact the final product’s quality or its effectiveness.
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